Henry Clarke (1918-1996)

The photographs of Henry Clarke capture the rarefied world of 1950s haute couture more consistently throughout the decade than any other photographer. His photographs of the sang froid elegance of models Dovima, Della Oake, Anne Saint-Marie, Suzy Parker and Dorian Leigh are masterpieces of extravagance in post war fashion photography. He negotiated a unique contract allowing him to photograph, from 1951, for all three Vogues (French, British and American). He covered the Spring and Summer couture collections for the magazines more frequently than any other photographer and in the 1960s, his editor Diana Vreeland often commanded from him - for a single issue of American Vogue - at least two dozen pages of exotic location work.

Even the most assured of heads might be unsettled by the delicate balancing act of dramatic chapeau, sparkling drop-earrings and cigarette holder. This ‘mop’ hat, by Simone Mirman for Dior, was emboldened by pitch-black ostrich feathers, patiently uncurled. ‘A breathtaking evening folly’ thought Vogue. More the latter, perhaps, considering the cigarette’s proximity to the feathers...

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For one of his last collections (he died the next year), Christian Dior made even less concessions to fifties’ austerity with this flamboyant evening dress of patterned silk taffeta. Though our subject looks utterly at ease with the deshabillé shoulders and the early evening glass of wine the sheer weight of the ruby and pearl bracelets vivid necklace of precious tones would have posed certain practical problems.

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 ‘What stripes are to tigers and peaches to cream, these sun clothes are to smart resort life: indispensable’, thought Vogue. The resort in question is Deauville, rich in sybaritic delights, whether dining, casinos or racing, and, as air travel became quicker and cheaper – just a short hop across the channel. Vogue’s sun-worshipper wears a loose sweater, slit deeply at the side, by Falconetto.

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What could say more about early morning London life than a city gent (bowler hat, umbrella and moustache) setting off for the office? Possibly the addition of the smart new London mini-cab, introduced this month to the capital’s streets, as fast-moving as a trip round Piccadilly Circus. His companion’s swing coat is trimmed with fur and her cloche hat made of ribbed velvet, both by Cavanagh.

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As the Melbourne Olympics approached, Vogue flew its team the considerable distance to Australia. In Victoria, the weather is always unpredictable, so Vogue chose an all-year-round combination of colourful chunky-knitted sweaters in pink and lavender (with vivid under-collars), worn stylishly with contrasting slim-tapered slacks. All by Jaeger and perfect, said Vogue, for ‘lounging around at home or indeed abroad’.

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The Spring Collections featured ‘boater’ hats in all shapes and sizes, lightweight and elegant for alfresco eating (though only British Vogue’s most soignée readers would have tackled a bistro chair with such confidence). Balmain’s colossal boater came with wheeled rings like a child’s spinning top and was worn as low as the eyebrows.

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Whatever the money spent on it, a Christmas present has to be the most beautiful, the most original or at least the most colourful, considered Vogue. Some, though, like this fabulous diamond necklace by Wartski are dependent on ‘fairy godfathers, oil wells or sheer size of bank balance’. It has certainly entranced its recipient, the more so perhaps when converted cleverly into a tiara.

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Entertaining is often a high point of the summer, though not every reader might have the time or inclination to dress herself and her lunch table with such elegant ease. This season’s bare arms made a larger hat almost an imperative (a small hat made one look ‘like a sightseer’). For their table, Hostesses were advised that pale linen and organdie had returned to favour, as well as uncontrived flowers and simple, classic crystal and china.

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The clothes may come from places as far apart as Spain or Finland (and they do). As to where they might go: there are no limits. Not in the age of jet travel. Their stamping ground is the Mediterranean (this is the Spanish coast) but you might see them anywhere from Brighton beach to Havana.

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Pleasures were simple then, and it didn’t take much for an alfresco summer party to become a dance: a back garden, some paper lanterns, a record player and a rack of good discs. If you wished to push the boat further out, Vogue recommended hiring banana trees, bamboo plants, ferns and palms with which to create an ‘exotic’ look. Warming to the theme, Vogue suggested simple but flavoursome food: a hotdog stand in the garden with curry and rice, pizza, quiche lorraine. If the festivities lasted to the small hours, ‘a big dish of ham with scrambled eggs piled on top, kedgeree and kidneys grilled and encased in toasted soft rolls’ and perhaps some kipper fillets too.

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For those possessed of ‘More Taste than Money’, as Vogue discreetly put it, summer glamour could be found inexpensively. Here, for example, perfect for sun worshipping, is a long-sleeved polka-dot cotton shirt and matching bloomers with, as a pièce de resistance, a cummerbund in a contrasting pattern, cinching the outfit at the waist. Only £4.19s at Harrods.